August 14, 1995
179 kilometers to the forest outside Passanglyst.
A late state because, with Sergei’s suggestion, I thought I was going to Moscow for the day. We went down to the Russian consulate to check on getting a visa but there were more than 100 people standing in line. Sergei managed to work his way to the front (he is an expert at working the system) and made inquiries, but alas, it looked like I wouldn’t be able to pull it off. So, back home in Sergei’s Volga where I packed up and Sergei and I were on the road about noon. He guided me through Vilnius before leaving me on the northern edge of the city. He is an absolutely fearless cyclist – although he recognizes the danger by wearing a ring that lists his blood type on it when he cycles.
It was warm and hazy as I set out for Panevezy’s. The road was a brand new four lane freeway with a 10 foot shoulder and very light traffic. All the way to Panevezy (140 kilometers from Vilnius) I rode at full speed in my highest gear, ticking off the kilometers as I cycled (which were marked by large signs in the median between the two sets of lanes and could be seen from a kilometer away).
I had several possible contacts at Panevezy’s from my book plus a friend that Kristina has recommended. Unfortunately, Kristina’s friend did not speak English and so I did not feel comfortable calling them. I tried a couple of the others from my book (from a working public phone – the first I’d seen on my trip) but got no answer. So, feeling a bit uncomfortable in this industrial eastern European city, I again decided to set out and find some woods to camp. Unfortunately the terrain was flat farmland and I had to ride 35 kilometers before I found this patch of forest. I feel relatively comfortable here – somehow I feel that I won’t be hassled if I am discovered camping in a Lithuanian forest.
August 15, 1995
118 kilometers to Vadim’s flat near the old town section of Riga, Latvia.
Not a lot of energy today. The riding, although on flat terrain and in windless conditions, was difficult because of the narrowness of the road and the heavy truck traffic. The border crossing was the usual irritant as I had to wind my way through dozens of Lithuanian and Latvian army personnel and go through five separate passport checks. The road widened as I approached Riga (although the lack of any kind of lane dividers or lines made it unclear how many lanes there were) and the traffic was light, so it was a pleasant entry into the city. I followed the Daugave river which guided me into the city center, where I jumped at the first chance for Scottish cuisine and scarfed down a Big Mac at the McDonalds (the first I’d seen since arrival in Tallinn). After that I was off to find Sergei’s friend Vadim to see if he would offer me a place to stay.
I found Vadim’s apartment without much trouble as it was within a few hundred meters of the city center. Vadim was home, and, despite the fact he spoke no English and only a smattering of German, graciously offered me the use of a bed in his apartment. Vadim lived with his brother in a portion of large apartment that had been partitioned into three sections, with a different family living in each section. They shared a common kitchen and toilet (which made it difficult to find open time to use the toilet). Vadim and his brother, despite the language barrier, were most accommodating. Vadim let me know that they would be going out for the evening and, since they would not be making supper, offered me 5 Latvian letis to buy myself some! They then left me alone in their place, and left for the night. It felt nice to just relax and be alone. I avoided the common areas of the apartment because the other residents did not speak English and were not particularly friendly.
Vadim’s apartment is located in one of the once-elegant 19th century apartment buildings that line the streets of Riga. The interior has 12 foot ceilings and a restroom where the toilet bowl hangs from the ceiling. It had a real Dr. Zhivago feel about it.
As far as the city or Riga itself, I am surprised at how modern and cosmopolitan it appears. It is much busier than Vilnius with a sophisticated big-city feel to it. The streets are full of professional in business dress as well as women in miniskirts and hot pants. There are a number of well-maintained parks near the center. The liveliness of the city is evidenced by the fact that it is now 4:00 a.m. and the voices and music from the downstairs café are just starting to wind down.
The center of Riga is full of brand new pay telephones with instructions in English. The condition of the streets, however, left something to be desired, as there were a number of missing manhole covers leaving gaping holes for the unsuspecting cyclist. Despite many banks in Riga, Latvia (like everywhere else I have traveled in Eastern Europe) is a cash-based culture. There are exchange offices everywhere in the center that deal only with cash. If is obvious that these societies have not yet built up a sufficient level of trust (and wealth) to take the step toward a credit-based culture. The Baltic countries will not even exchange each other currencies, much travelers checks or visa advances. Dollars and DM seem to be the currencies of preference.
Riga aside, the surrounding countryside is reminiscent of my experience of Poland with the long rows of mini-entrepreneurs, kiosks and tiny shops. I wonder if there is some overall organizer of these people that is raking in the big money.
I spent much of the evening listening to the radio, which has primarily American pop music on it. The only exceptions being the BBC and a classical station.
August 16, 1995
190 kilometers to a stuga in Sauga, Estonia.
Well, rode a hell of a lot more than I had anticipated again today. For the third consecutive day there were near ideal riding conditions: clear and calm in the morning and high clouds and calm in the afternoon with temperatures peaking in the 70’s.
I was up early as I had trouble sleeping due to the café directly below Vadim’s apartment. Did a bit of touring of Riga in the quiet of early morning and was impressed by the fine Hanseatic architecture of the old town and the many well-maintained parks. I then had an easy ride out of Riga on wide boulevards with light traffic, followed by a flat stretch through pretty pine forests all the way to Estonia. Along this stretch I met Marcel, a Swiss cyclist who was carrying a guitar on the bike of his bike! He said that he takes 4 or 5 months off every year to cycle and has cycled in every country in Europe.
The Estonia border was the usual irritant, as I had to go through four passport checks. Once into Estonia in the late afternoon my energy peaked and I was able to high-gear for long stretches in regular cadence. As it got near nightfall I found a campground near Uulu. I pulled into the site which was populated by a large group of young Estonians. One of them spoke English fairly well and told me that this group had reserved the entire campground but that I could rent one of the five-bed stugas for 55 EK (about $5). I grabbed at the opportunity and got a very nice, 12’ x 15’ pine cabin all to myself. I took a wonderful shower and then lay in bed and read my books. I was feeling content, and even the blasting rock music of my neighbors could not dispel the feeling.
I rode most of the day on a McDonalds cheeseburger, a small loaf of bread with a liverwurst spread, and a couple of chocolate bars. The stretch of Latvia near Riga was utterly different than the interior, with lots of services (gas stations, kiosks, bars, markets) every few kilometers. Almost all of it was brand new. There were fewer services once I crossed into Estonia, but still I felt as though I had arrived in a familiar place.
August 17, 1995
125 kilometers to "The Barn" youth hostel in Tallinn.
Another ideal day for cycling as it was clear, calm and cool in the morning and not too hot in the afternoon. The usual flat terrain through pine forests and farm land. The road was good with about a ½ meter shoulder and the riding was easy and fast. The last 10 kilometers into Tallinn was, however, like an insane New York rush hour. I rode with the trucks for awhile until I felt it was too dangerous whereupon I took to the sidewalk. Unlike Riga, Tallinn is spread out and the entry was along a residential street of individual houses rather than apartments.
After briefly getting lost I managed to find the old town and the hostel located in the center of it. I was pleasantly surprised to find the old town to be a real medieval treasure (unfortunately mobbed with tourists) which I wandered around in before finding the hostel. The hostel itself is nice and funky, and currently has no water (as proved by the giant hole swarming with workers that has been ripped in the street directly in front of the hostel). After settling into the hostel, and securing Burton in a safe closet, I wandered around the old town and then down to the port where I purchased my ferry ticket to Helsinki.
I actually felt pretty good to hang around the backpackers at the hostel (boy, is that a surprise!). It was nice to speak some English and I was getting a little tired of the eastern European rudeness that seems to govern interactions with strangers. Spent much of the evening conversing with a couple of English travelers at the hostel. One of them was on the last let of a two year around the world tour. He had come to Tallinn via the TransSiberia railroad from Beijing.
August 18, 1995
Spent the morning wandering the old town of Tallinn. It is a beautiful place when it is devoid of tourists. I found out that the hostel was run by an American and that there are a number of other businesses in the old town operated by Americans (apparently of Estonian ancestory). Tallinn has an English language newspaper (the Baltic Express) which reported that another bus was hijacked in Poland (the 26th this year) and that Estonia has warned its citizens about traveling there.
Estonia seems to have taken a giant step toward westernization and is far more westernized than any other eastern European country I have been. With the exception of Riga, this is far less evident in Latvia and Lithuania.
On to the ferry to Helsinki.