Resting in rural bus stop

Roman, near the Polish border

Decin

Decin to Horice

Horice to Stity

Stity to Budisov

105 km to a campground at Decin, Czechoslovakia.

I've been in Czechoslovakia for four hours and I can hardly remember what happened this morning in Germany. The change has been radical to say the least. The morning was spent mostly climbing to the Czech border. I had a couple of steep descents on cobblestone roads--I had to walk--but otherwise the roads were fairly good with light traffic. I had one very nice tree-lined stretch along a fast moving stream.

My arrival at the border made me appreciate Germany. It border area itself was ugly, and the forest had been clearcut.  The Czech side consisted of a string of money exchange businesses (at least 50) fronted by groups of prostitutes catering to German tourists. I exchanged $70 into Czech Korun and then set out on the main road into Dubi, 7 km distant. The entire route into Dubi was on a 12% downhill. The road had no shoulder, and the truck traffic was heavy. I managed to get behind a truck going about 40 kph and, with an impatient line of traffic on my rear, follow him for the entire way. It was incredibly nerve-racking. I had my brakes on the whole way and they were getting so hot I was concerned about burning the pads and rims. I could not see the road ahead of me and, since I was going at such a high speed, if I had hit a pothole the results could have been disastrous. Fortunately, the roads were smooth and I arrived in Dubi without incident.

At Dubi I had to turn east, and had only one possible route for the next 35 km. I was not looking forward to riding on a major route, but was astounded when the entire stretch was on smooth asphalt with at least a two foot shoulder. This excellent road seemed slightly incongruous to me because the villages and towns were ramshackle and ancient, and the people had the rough appearance of coal miners. It was like a brand new highway in a Third World environment.

After a another long stretch of downhill, I had a gradual 5 km climb into Chulmec, followed by a 20 km downhill to Decin. I had not confronted this type of terrain anywhere in Europe, and I was enjoying it immensely. It was spectacular high gear riding which seemed like it would never end. I have no idea how far I dropped in elevation, but it seemed as though I must be below sea level by now.

I was surprised by the reaction of the people to me. I was generally ignored, with very little staring--which is fine by me. One truck driver did throw a bottle cap at me, however, when I cycled by his parked vehicle.

When I arrived at Decin, I followed signs for a campground located in the city limits (Decin is an industrial town with @200,000 inhabitants). The camp manager was impressed (!) with my German and told me that they had had only one other American camp here. He told me that this previous camper had been from "Louis Armstrong's home town". I then settled into my site at the crowded campground, and prepared for what looked like a raucous evening. The campground was full of beer drinking Czechs so I expected little peace and quiet.

Behind my tent, and above the tree line, there is an ethereal castle perhaps 500 feet above the city. It has a fairy tale quality to it. Across from me there is a German family (a couple and two children) on a bicycle tour. I hope to talk to them later this evening.

Before retiring I went to the concession stand and got a large glass of Czech beer (for about 30 cents) which was delicious and got me amazingly high. I should sleep well tonight.

136 km through Ces Lipa and Ulbice to a campground near Horice.

A day of high gear, high flying cycling. I took main roads, except for the final 20 km, and they were all excellent--smooth, wide asphalt with light traffic. I saw many local cyclists on the road during the day. The terrain was through a valley and was either flat or long gradual climbs and descents. The weather was warm and humid, and so I worked up a healthy sweat.

As I was cycling through the narrow streets of Ces Lipa (where the buildings abutted the road) I was given a shower with an unknown liquid. Somebody had tossed a pail of it out a second story window and it struck me flush on the back. In more pleasant social interactions, three people came up to talk to me on separate occasions, but we were frustrated by the lack of a common language. The only Czechs I have met thus far who speak some English are high school age kids. The second language of adults is either Russian or German. So, I have had to rely on my limited German.

My final twenty kilometers were on a very pleasant secondary road that wound through some lovely villages. These villages had a pleasing combination of new and old architecture, as well as lots of gardens and well kept homes. When I was less than a kilometer from my final destination I was held up for two hours by a series of motorcycle and car races. The car race included a weird assortment of homemade vehicles--souped up Ladas, Skodas, Austin Minis, Volkswagons and unrecognizable combinations of the above. I enjoyed sitting in the shade, reading a book, and looking up whenever the pack roared by.

The prices here are very cheap. It would be possible to tour comfortably for under $5 a day. Campsites cost about 50 cents, "hamburgers" (no relation to American style) cost about 25 cents at the fast food kiosks while ice cream cones, also purchased in kiosks, cost about 10 cents. The problem lies not in the cost, but in the availability of food. The grocery stores, which are usually less than 400 square feet in size, stock a great deal of alcohol and soda but a very limited selection of food (i.e. rice, beans, hard bread, canned fish, a few pickled vegetables and sausages). It does not make much difference whether you are in a village store or in a store in the larger towns, as they all seem to stock these few items. Besides food, other items are also very reasonably priced. Hard cover books cost about $2, while cigarettes start at 25 cents a pack and beer is about 20 cents a bottle.

There are a shortage of cyclist "sanctuaries" here--i.e., no church yards, few parks and no libraries. I've resorted to eating in bus stop buildings, which are often found in rural areas as well as in the towns, when I want some privacy.

125 km through Dubenec, Pecin and Lethorad to a campground near Stity.

A warm, clear but hazy day (bad air pollution). I took all secondary roads and they were excellent (smooth asphalt) with almost no traffic. Lots of steep climbing in beautiful deciduous forests during the day. I discovered I could climb a sign-posted 12% grade, without any problem, in second gear. I went through several very pretty villages and also saw some spectacular vistas, which were unfortunately marred by the pollution.

Since it was Sunday, there were a lot of villagers out and about, most of them gawking at me as I rode by (the one man traveling freak show). But most people were friendly enough, and helpful whenever I asked directions. Of course, nobody speaks English and it is only at the campgrounds that I can find people who speak German. So, I've had to resort to creative ways to communicate--i.e, I always have a pen and paper handy so that the people can draw me a map. I also saw hundreds of local cyclists on the road. Some of them had high quality bikes and expensive racing outfits. When I greet them with an "ahoy" they usually respond, but they never initiate a greeting.

I ate at two restaurants today and got three course meals for less than $1.50. It felt great to order the most expensive item on the menu (pork chops, french fries, vegetables and a side of boiled potatos) at the campground tonight. At these prices I can live it up on restaurant food for the next few days.

I've seen little evidence of police or military here. The only soldiers I've seen were a couple of hitchhikers in uniform (they looked more like boy scouts than soldiers.) The churches I've seen are of the Russian Orthodox faith. Unlike in Germany, I have seen many religious monuments throughout the countryside (open churches, crucifixes and alters along the road). I've also seen many gypsies encamped beside the road.

My final few kilometers out of Veternice today were on the steepest downhill I have ever encountered--at least 20%. My brakes would not have been able to handle it, so I walked very gingerly down the hill. My campground is located at the bottom of this hill. It is an unusually quiet site, populated primarily with German tourists. I am lying in the grass reading and relaxing, and watching several hang gliders as they come floating down from the top of the hill.

I heard on the radio that Vaclov Havel is resigning and has suggested that a Slovakian state be established. I may be entering a brand new country tomorrow!

98 km through Svebohov and Lipina to a campground at Budisov. Passed through the uniquely named village of Horni Studenker as well.

A warm, humid and sunny day with no wind. Lots of climbing and a couple of beautiful, long downhills through canopied forests.

Today I took main roads because I wanted to find a map of Poland in one of the larger towns. Despite the fact that there were three good-sized cities en route, there was not a single map to be found. The lack of consumer goods here is striking. A town of 25,000 might have a few tiny grocery stores, a couple of small clothing stores and not much else. I've yet to see a store of any sort larger than 600 square feet. I did see a bike shop in Sternberk, the first that I had come across.

There was a 10 km climb out of Sternberk. It was actually very enjoyable as there was a wide shoulder and a spectacular view of the valley below. The roads were filled with people--bicycling, walking and some just sitting in the middle of the road. There is a real variety of people here. Lots of dark complected people (gypsies or slavs?) as well as fair skinned blondes. I am also surprised at the number of long-haired men.

I've seen no evidence of political activity--i.e. no billboards or graffiti (except one wonderful slogan in English: "Give chance a peace"). Despite my "Mluvite Anglicky" (Do you speak English?) to about 50 people today I have yet to meet an English speaker. I might as well ask them if they speak Chippewa. Despite the fact nobody speaks English every teenager has a t-shirt advertising some American university, pro sports team or rock group (One of the campers at the campsite tonight has a mohawk haircut and a Sex Pistol haircut). Also, all the music I hear is in English ("Bad Moon Rising" is blaring right now--I'm probably the only person in the whole camp who can understand it). Finally, all the movies playing at the local cinemas are American horror/slasher type films, as far as I can determine (i.e. I saw a Czech description of a film (of which I could understand zero) with the word "Freddy" in bold print).

I ate in restaurants three times today, as there is absolutely nothing nutritious for me to buy in the markets. The only things I purchase there are cokes and chocolate bars. Had a goulasch lunch (meat with dumpling bread) that was delicious despite the fact that the restaurant was dark and dirty and filled with flies.

At the campground tonight the manager told me (in German) that I was the first American to ever camp there. He then charged me 20 Korun (75 cents) which was considerably below the usual rate and told me he would not do the paper work so he could pocket it himself. The guests at this campground are all Czechs. That's OK with me as I am a bit tired of German tourists. They are clannish and the language grates on me--and I've had some loquacious neighbors the past few nights.

I need to spend more money! What a dilemma. The Czech Korun is not, according to my guidebook, exchangeable with other currencies, so it needs to be used in this country. I went shopping and bought four batteries (25 cents apiece), several envelopes (10 cents) and mailed some postcards (20 cents apiece). At this rate I am never going to use up the $70 I converted. It is possible to eat in a restaurant three times, stay at a campground and have a couple of beers for around $5 a day.

Shopping is a problem for me in the cities because of the long lines and concern about having things stolen from my bike. There is no problem in the villages, but then there is hardly anything to buy.

CONTINUE ON TO POLAND